NAVIGATION ICONS AND WHAT THEY MEAN!

1. 2007 NF Roto-Start System

NF has released a new roto-start system, the new kit includes the old style roto

drill attachment along with a new roto start plate. The general idea for this new

plate is to replace the older plastic plate, which sticks out and pushes on the inside

of the body and lowers your lean angles. This new plate is much shorter width wise

and this can only be a good thing. When entering a corner you want to keep your

bike at maximum speed. Max lean angle means max speed obtained.

2. Custom 506 Exhaust Mounting Bracket

Unfortunately, the stock 506 NF exhaust bracket is plastic and is weak. I

managed to break two of them in a very short period of time so I decided

to make a custom bracket. This bracket is made out of solid steel sheets

and is approximately 1 -16th thick. You can create a bracket like this in

a few minutes using a pair of pliers. If you encounter the same problem

then you might consider using this small tech-tip. Enjoy.

3. Lexan Rider

Building the bike rider is not the easiest thing to do and I often get e-mail

from users asking how-do-I type questions. Normally, when I cut the rider

out, cut as much of the rider as possible to reduce gross weight. The lighter

the body and rider the faster the bike will be. What you want to do us cut

out the rider on both sides going along the general clear lines and this doesn’t

need to be perfect. You can use an airbrush or cans to paint them, but in

general it takes practice to paint a rider or body. The general topic is holding

both sides together? I use super glue that is fresh, not glue which has been sitting

around for years because you want the glue to dry quickly. After the rider has

been painted, put a few drop of glue on each side of the head and then hold it

together with your fingers. You should watch t.v or listen to the radio while

gluing the rider. Start at the head and work your way down the back of the rider

adding a few drops, let dry and continue. After both halves are slightly holding you

want to hold the rider upside down and put glue on the inside of the rider and

use allot! After you applied glue on both areas let it sit for 20 hours or over night

so it can harden. It should be solid as a rock the next day… Painting is the tricky

part and just takes practice and time. Use Velcro on the rider and bike to hold

the rider on, which can be purchased in square sections at any local hardware

store.

4. Alleven-RC CroMo Racing Forks

Allevenrc.com has released some really nice looking oil dampened forks for the NF

and Thunder Tiger bikes. The forks offer superb handling and are very adjustable

for your racing needs. The forks arrive pre-assembled with two upper and

lower triple brackets, Fork legs, two hex screws and two small custom c-clips. The

lower triple has a countersink hole for the bottom c-clip to hide in and this is a nice feature.

They are designed to be a direct replacement for the stock NF and TT forks. The forks

will need to be shimmed, but nothing else is required other then bolting them on.

Now, the forks are adjustable and you might want to use heavier silicone oil depending

on your damping requirements, pre-load is adjustable with an optional spacer. Pat’s

brakes installed fine, but the 506 axle does not fit. You must use the 501 axle! The

longer 506 axle pushes the forks outwards, but they don’t seem to bind like the

tornado forks.

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The forks handle exceptionally well on the track and cornering was above average.

Did not encounter any problems with them during hard leans, steady braking and

different tire compounds. The first test was on the stock shock oil and I found this

to be very loose for my taste, but after adding a stiffer silicon oil the shocks performed

very well. If you are just parking lot bashing the stock oil is fine, but you will want to

stiffen them up for the track. Overall I was very impressed with the forks and do

recommend them. Don’t forget to bring a larger hex key if you wish to open the top

of the forks, I did.

5. How to remove a stuck piston sleeve

Here is a problem that I have encountered before, a stuck piston sleeve. If you

forget to run your bike dry and allow it to sit idle for several days, then the fuel

can gunk up the block. Sometimes the only way to free the piston & sleeve is

to strip the motor, removing the piston sleeve can be a task. Here is a neat trick

to break loose your piston sleeve. Take a zip tie, medium to heavy because the

small ties will cut easy.

Now place it in the exhaust port, with a wrench slowly turn the piston upwards,

which should break the sleeve loose from the block. Back the piston down and

put the zip in again from the top and do the same thing if you need to lift it upwards

again. The zip tie will not harm the piston or sleeve, do not use a screw driver to

pry the sleeve upwards since this can damage the sleeve.

Any questions that you need answered, ask away! Lorenzo